WOMENSWEAR HIGHLIGHTS LIZ BLACK’S SPACE-AGE CONCEPT CACHED BACKSTAGE

August 31, 2010 § Leave a comment

(By Modesta Dziautaite in Fashion 156/ August 2010)

Central Saint Martins BA Show

   Circle shaped garments by Liz Black

 Photo by Palida Boonyarungsrit

Graduate Fashion Week is nearly upon us, and last night’s early arrival of the CSM BA show was undisputedly one of the raw roots of all creativity in the industry, that brought back established alumni such as Gareth Pugh for its uncompromising inspiration. The 40 students showed a self-assuring indication of next few seasons’ trends – wood prosthetics, the return of metallics and African references. Of course, at Central Saint Martins it is never how it appears – these references are maximised, extorted and refined to give new meaning and let our interpretations run wild.

Anne Karine Thorbjoernsen’s opening collection had an interesting way of conveying its 3D nature – building upwards from oriental wooded inserts in the back of lapelled dresses, to a transformative climax of angular arms that catapulted the silhouette to lateral new heights. Knitwear particularly pushed boundaries using topiary-style dresses to form faces in multi-dimensional movements of colour, seen in Helen Price’s, Buki Agbabiaka and Onez Lau’s collections. I caught a glimpse of the former’s complex pieces backstage still on mannequins, which already looked fit to be in a V&A exhibition next to a knitwear expert like Sonia Rykiel.

Menswear was subdued with an outback military theme in Philip Patterson’s collection and a surprising coalition of Polo and Middle Eastern influences in Nicholas Smith’s romantic tailoring. However, Craig Green surpassed all with his shock factor – a toy-kingdom-esque collection that had the models as ‘band boys’ in drum hats, tribal fringing and tubular weaving, making it one of the overall stand outs of the night. Whilst my personal womenswear highlight was Liz Black’s space-age concept that was executed in the form of planets with diversifying prints reflecting coldness (moon) and heat (sun). The evolving shape turned into a cape-like hat providing the most note-worthy futurism I have seen in a while.

                                                Photo by Palida Boonyarungsrit

Romantic juxtaposition (see our current issue) was a prominent running theme of the night with Isabel Czenin Fishlock child-like proportioned canvas embellished with tissue butterflies and Didier Wong Kung Fong’s vision of the modern rebel with skater, leisure and underwear as outerwear elements combined with whimsical veils covering wet hair, for a contradictory effect. The L’Oreal Professional Award winner of the night was deserving Yi Fang Wan for her Grecian collection of fragile draping in artesian tones, religious references and peasantry frayed edges (an emerging trend for S/S11).

Finally, Sorcha O’raghallaigh triumphed the show’s closing with a toy-kingdom circus-theme collection of maximalist knitwear on stilt walkers. The closing bridal net dress embellished with hundreds of crucifixes was the most impressive interpretation of recent religious references in any collection and received an astounding cheer from the audience. The exhilaration and shock of it all couldn’t be called a show – more of a theatrical demonstration of untainted opportunist talent – I couldn’t put it better than Colin McDowell who ended the show thanking Central Saint Martin’s for its ‘extremism in these mundane times’.

POP MAGAZINE HIGHLIGHTED LIZ BLACK

August 23, 2010 § Leave a comment

(By The Pop.com Blog/ May 2010)

POP 296 Weekend 2-23 May 2010

Today’s POP is Tui and she is ready to run the marathon.

The marathon being the Central Saint Martins internal show, which is fashion’s equivalent to a marathon and as expected the students didn’t disappoint. The shows (all three of them!) were a melting pot of pastiches borrowed from various cultures and reinterpreted into intricately knitted pieces, origami folded dresses, fluorescent printed fabrics and of course the more outre pieces such as a 17th century chair masquerading as a dress as well as a knitted horse head doubling as a sweater!
Highlights of the show included:

'Circle Cut Dress with Pollock inspired print by Liz Black'

LIZ BLACK AT FASHIONING THE FUTURE 2008

August 23, 2010 § Leave a comment

pict by catwalking.com

London College of Fashion invited Liz Black to participate in an important catwalk show. Liz’s Alice in Wonderland collection was showed at Fashioning the Future. Find attached two of her looks.

LIZ BLACK FRAMED BY BBC

August 23, 2010 § Leave a comment

(By Thread Fashion Without Victim/ November 2008)

Fashioning The Future

 Photo by Thread Fashion Without Victim

 

Liz Black (finalist, pictured left) is motivated by stories of child labour in the garment industry which permeate her designs. She uses recycled materials and organic cotton. Digital printing is incorporated due to its more efficient production process.

WHITE PROJECT BY LIZ BLACK IN H MAGAZINE PUBLICATION

August 23, 2010 § Leave a comment

(By H Magazine Publication) 

Dress by Liz Black

Stylist: Io Takemura

 

LIZ BLACK SHOWED AT FASHIONING THE FUTURE 2008

August 23, 2010 § Leave a comment

Liz Black
Central Saint Martins College of Art & Design. Graduate 2010
liz@lizblack.net

Motivated by stories of child labour in the garment industry, Liz
has juxtaposed the situation of these children with the story of
Alice in Wonderland – a child in a perfect, magical garden who
lives through very strong, scary, adult experiences. In using
reclaimed textiles with sentimental value Liz could be sure that
no child labour is involved in its next incarnation whilst diverting
waste from the one million tonnes of textiles sent to landfill each
year. Where new material was required, Liz sourced organic cotton
to minimise use of pesticides, and digital printing for a more
efficient production process.

'Alice in Wonderland' by Liz Black

Welcome to Fashioning the Future
by the Centre for Sustainable Fashion

The Fashioning the Future Summit is the first major event to come
out of the Centre for Sustainable Fashion. The Centre was opened
in 2008 by director Dilys Williams and ambassador Caryn Franklin
to support, inspire and promote innovative approaches to the
fashion industry to achieve a sustainable future for all stakeholders
across the supply chain.

We are proud to promote the work of 26 designers, each
interpreting sustainability in groundbreaking and beautiful ways.
The collections showcased exemplify the creative boundaries that
are being pushed in order to re-explore fashion in sustainable
terms. Collectively they represent myriad responses to a complex
set of issues threatening the future of our industry. This is much
more than a starting point but it is by no means the solution. These
examples of thoughtful design aim to act as a catalyst for further
development and exploration at a number of levels. The results are
exciting as they are innovative and impart a sense of celebration
for the positive transforming power of considered design.

Fifteen of the collections showcased are finalists of the Fashioning
the Future competition – a global student project sponsored by
Adili.com. The two winners of the contest will each win a cash
prize and the opportunity to be mentored by Sim Scavazza, creative
director of Adili.com. This competition attracted entries from across
the world and allows us to understand different geographical and
cultural perspectives to sustainability in fashion.

The summit strategy day has been developed to bring experts and
change makers to meet together to evolve a dynamic and forward
thinking approach to sustainability in fashion, questioning current
practice and behaviour in order to propose new and better ways
to design, develop and offer product evoking and responding
to a change in consumption patterns. We believe that through
collective debate and idea exchange we can create momentum to
effect change in our industry. The Centre for Sustainable Fashion
will be collating data to develop a tactics for change document
which will be circulated amongst all stakeholders. We believe that
from our neutral informed position we can guide, support and
promote the innovators, radicals and realists in designing a new
system.

We have been lucky enough to be able to highlight the
groundbreaking and inspiring work of two internationally
acclaimed artists. Lucy Orta and Nicole Mackinlay Hahn have
travelled the globe to confront key issues affecting our paths as
consumers. We urge you engage with these exhibitions for the
short time they are in place here.

The Centre for Sustainable Fashion is proud to be working with
The Earth Awards: Future-Crucial Design Solutions. Sponsored by
the Royal Princes of Abu Dhabi and Malaysia, this first of a kind
event has been founded with the mission to find and facilitate
the future-crucial design solutions that will improve the quality of
life for all human beings. The Earth Awards will culminate in an
event at The American Museum of Natural History in New York
in December 08 featuring key designers from the Fashioning the
Future show. If you would like to make a submission to this event,
please visit The Earth Awards.

We hope that Fashioning the Future inspires you to think,
experiment and innovate. If you would like to work with us again,
please get in touch.

A LITTLE DREAM

August 23, 2010 § Leave a comment

Dream A Little Dream
2007
Second year students from Central Saint Martins BA (Honours) Fashion Course worked in teams on a theme of their choice to raise awareness of the importance of sustainability within creative Fashion Design.
The team who created the dream a little dream promotion were chosen to display their collection at the recent Fashioning an Ethical Industry conference held in Manchester.

Dream A Little Dream project draws it’s inspiration from third world countries, child labouring and illustrates the corruption of children who have to work and their deprivation of education.
Colourful, hand made, over-sized, graphic, chunky, quilted. all those elements are combined into the garments that are made as fine art pieces and presented as an installation. The garments aim to speak in a loud and clear voice that childhood is the base of our society and dreams mustn’t be stolen, giving children a chance to dream a little dream.

The Team
Ayako Ohori
Egle Ceknaviccute
Irene Cheong
Laura Setzer
Vicki Cheng Wang Ying
Alex Da Silva
Liz Black
Koko Kasugai

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